new zealand: travers-sabine circuit with blue lake

Nelson Lakes National Park, Tasman / 110kms / 3-6 days one way / Expert

Easiest way to get right into the heart of the Nelson Lakes National Park is the 80 km circuit track. Beautiful forests, wide open fields, mountains reaching high up as well as multiple clear streams and rivers truly lets you escape the crowds.

Circuit takes 3-6 days to complete depending your fitness level, or if you take some transport options available into the track. The track itself is fairly well formed and maintained, although there are sections which require experience in case ion heavy rains or freezing conditions, which can happen any time of the year.

A Backcountry Hut Pass or Backcountry Hut Tickets are required to stay in any of the huts on the circuit. Also, of you are planning to visit Angelus Hut, you are required to make a booking in advance.

Arrival and Day 1: St arnaud to upper travers hut

As usual, I like to arrive a day earlier to get familiar with a track as well as make sure to get up to date, latest weather forecast and conditions of the area and route. St Arnaud is a beautiful spot right on a doorstep to the Nelson Lakes Nation Park. You have few accommodation options to choose from, as well as general store to get last minute supplies you might need. There is a DOC information centre you should visit, especially if you have made a booking to the Angelus Hut.

Knowing it was going to be a wet first day, I decided to skip the first part of the walk and start from the Lakehead hut. I had organised a water taxi to take me to the hut, which saved me 3 hours of walking. The reason was to reach out the Upper Travers Hut on a first day, so I would be ready to climb over the saddle right on a second day when the weather was going to be better.

Approximately half hour long boat cruise on a Lake Rotoiti gave me a chance to relax and enjoy the views as I entered deeper to the National Park. Rain wasn’t too hard, and it was truly peaceful start fo the day. Other option is to go to the other side of the lake to Coldwater hut.

Once reached the dock, I walked 30 minutes to the Lakehead hut, where I decided to add more rain gear on as rain was getting more persistent. As I was looking the track ahead, I was slightly bummed realising this side of the track is mostly exposed and therefore less cover form the rain, which would have been the case if starting from the Coldwater hut. Althou, with a rain like this, it probably wouldn't have mattered.

The hike itself was combination of open and exposed fields, lush forest, several bridges as well as multiple river crossings. As it had been a several days of rain already, some of the rivers and streams were quite powerful and water levels were high, which were close by impassable - however I managed to cross them safely.

Even I was excited and the scenery was stunning, the rain started to get into me and uplifting mood was slowly disappearing. You can imagine I was relieved to see my destination, Upper Travers Hut for a good rest and night sleep. ALong the way there were several option to do return sidetrips with a hut at the end of the each sections if you wish so. More information of these can be found from the DOC website.

There was only other other person in the hut, however I was told there is no dry wood and therefore there was no chance to lit up a fire. What a bummer. Feeling cold and hungry, I decided to cook a fast meal and go straight to my sleeping bag to rest and keep warm, as the night was already falling and think how come some people don’t know/ or care about the general hiking rules regarding firewood? Oh well, can’t let that get into you too much.

day 2: upper traverse to blue lake

I was greeted with a beautiful sunrise as I was having my breakfast and coffee. Yesterday wasn't even in my mind anymore, as I was all hyped up to climb to the Mt Travers Saddle and to the other side of the mountain. During the winter and spring ice axe and crampons are required, as well as experience and extra care should be taken due the avalanches.

My plan as was to cross the saddle, head to the Wes Sabine Hut, then to the Blue Lake and back to the West Sabine, which mean it was gong to be a one hell of a day ahead. So I stepped to the track and started my climb right after the breakfast. The ground was crunchy and little rivers were frozen from the night, as I was taking a gently climb towards the base of the mountain. The good news was I was already half way of the climb, and the start fo the day wasn’t going to anything demanding.

Only few hours in, and 450 meter elevation, I was on top of the saddle, viewing the snow covered Mt Travers as well other mountains as the sun was warming my face. Beautiful sight and moment to breath and take it all in. Snow crystals were glittering in the sun and it was all magical.

Even it was beautiful, the temperature was fairly low and I decided to start the massage descent to the other side. The scenery changed within minutes and I was greeted with a beautiful mountain ranges and lush green forests below. Descent was almost 1000 meters elevation, which was brutal. As this was off season, leaves were already falling and the track was extremely slippery doe the wet leaves, frost and mud and I started feeling the pain creeping in to my knees and joins. There were few dangerous slips, unnecessary falls, and lot of close call injuries however after few hours I was finally at the bottom fo the mountain, in total agony. The good news was the track became much easier and flat to the West Sabine Hut, where I got rid of warmed clothes, had lunch, and decided to continue to the Blue Lake Hut.

The walk was more rugged, with steep climbs and descents, as well as alternative routes due the damage on a track. This wasn’t easy, and I decided early on to alter my plans, and stay over night at the Blue Lake. Might as well as I was deep into the Park and this ins’t quick reach. I also decided to alter my original plan to climb up to the Lake Angelus, as this is with shorter reach from the St Arnaud, and also weather was about to turn stormy within next few days.

Finally after 4 hours from the West Sabine, I reached the Blue Lake. This is the lake with cleared fresh water in the world - and it is absolutely beautiful spot! I didn’t have any idea of this fact until I was searching more information about this before the hike, and it was truly clear I made a good decision to slow down and stay here over night. My legs, or more specifically me knees, sure loved me.

day 3: blue lake to sabine hut

The nigh had a clear sky, and as I woke up in the middle of the night, I had to go outside and admire the sky filled with stars. I knew I was in luck to have another clear day ahead.

This was going to be a shorter day, which was good knows knowing my legs might give me problems, and I should slow down. I took a track back to the West Sabine Hut, and further on to continue to the Sabine Hut. I felt great and energised, yet only hour in hiking, my legs started hurting again. I started to think alternatives to abort the hike earlier in case track would be demanding from the West Sabine Hut to Sabine Hut. I knew there might be an option to take a water taxi out of the hut to the near by town, and further on get a transport to St Arnaud.

The track was much easier from the West Sabine. It follows the Sabine River, occasionally appearing from the forest to the long, open flats where I got a chance to enjoy warm sunshine. Track only has one steeper climb with a descent, which was great news. Seeing a random fisherman out of nowhere mad eye wonder what type of fish there is to catch. Bu the looks of it he was lucky with his multiple catches.

The hut is right next to the peaceful lake Rotoroa. It was much busier as it can be reached by water taxi from Rotoroa village, and it is a great gateway to the park if you wish to make it easier to enter to the National Park. As I was chatting away with fellow hut visitors, I was thinking my options to finish the hike - either continue next day roughly 7-8 hours of hiking to the St Arnaud, or opt out to call a water taxi by using the radio in the hut. As tempting as the water taxi was, I decided to continue my hike. One reason was a high price of the last minute call out, and second was my stubbornness - to not give up as I was so close to complete the whole hike. Also, my legs were in a better shape due the easier section, and knowing if I would slow down, it wouldn’t been impossible. However those are your option to start, or finish the hike.

Third option, which I had in my mind originally, would be to climb up the the Lake Angelus from the Sabine Hut, which would be roughly 6 hours and follow the ridge like to the St Arnaud. I changed my plans for this due the upcoming weather, issues with my legs, and just a lack of time as I decided to slow down and enjoy the beauty of the Blue Lake with added night in there. And I am sure happy I did.

Another great rest, enjoying the darkness and magical sights fo the Lake Rototoa, and delicious dinner of freshly matched trout from the Sabine River a fellow hut visitors cooked. Perfect last evening in a circuit.

Day 4: sabine hut to st arnaud

Last day and 8 hours to go to finish the hike. It is funny how the distances are described by times and not kilometres. I was wondering this earlier however the distance can be so misleading as even it says 5 kilometres, you might end up walking almost twice as much due the ascent and descent, as well as multiple zigzags and conditions of the track. Same distance can take twice the time you might take compared to open road and hiking trails.

The rain was back in to greet me as I started the last big ascent of the day. As I was making my way along, I turned few times to look back to check out the alternative route I had planned to do to reach St Angelus and man… it would have been brutal. No regrets to alter my plans based on the conditions and my own abilities.

Once reaching the Howard Saddle via high and unique wetlands I reached the Speargrass Hut. This is another point which you can take to the St Angelus, and this also acts as an emergency route if you are at the top of the mountains and the weather turns worse, stopping you to use ridge line track to the St Arnaud. One other hiker was already in the hut telling she had to take this option due the dangerous weather. There you go - I got the final confirmation I made a right decisions. I know… Even all the reasoning I made earlier I was still a bit bummed I didn’t follow through my original plan however I would have missed the ridge line no matter what.

As we were talking briefly, rain became heavier outside however the track was going to be mostly covered with thick forest. This other hiker wasn’t a first time here and she knew it would be nice easy walk to the car park where the track ends. After hearing my plan to continue my walk from the car park to the St Arnaud, she kindly offered me a ride to the village. So kind of her. As I was having a small lunch, she started the hike herself as she thought I would be faster and told me to find here from the car park for agreed ride incase she got there first.

The track is easy from here on and it’s only 1.5 hours away. This was nothing, and without realising I managed to catch her 45 minutes in, and 30 minutes fighter we reached the car park and end of the track. Along the way I came across much more hikers as weekend was ahead. I could tell this is a great weekend escape, even just for a little return trip.

15 minutes ride and I was back in my accommodation I left my car. I couldn’t wait the jump into a hot shower and get a proper meal! I knew I would be sleeping well tonight.

All and all what a fantastic region. Less crowded hikes, rugged yet well formed tracks, and how the tracks are connected… So many options for side trips, or make it a bigger circuit, or even cut it shorter if situation requires.

Why I haven’t been here earlier I wonder?? But I know I will be back sooner than later!

Quick tips:

Plan your trip well and make sure you tell someone of your plans.

If you are planning to go Lake Angelus Hut, make sure you have made a booking. During a public holidays this fills fast so make sure you confirm it in time.

Remember to bring snacks and food to replenish your strength as you need it. Pack accordingly for all eventualities such as emergencies, or you may be stranded for one reason or another.

The hut are standard, without gas so make sure you have your own cooking gear.

Consider every scenario - the weather, emergencies and other conditions.

Consider taking hiking poles with you, as well as a personal locator beacon, and allow plenty of time.

Explore beautiful Nelson Lakes National Park!