Argentina: El chalten and el calafate
This trip was part of the bigger South American adventure, including Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu hike in mysterious Peru, 4WD road trip through Salar del Uyuni Salt Flats in rugged but beautiful Bolivia, as well as San Pedro de Atacama desert town and Torres del Paine W-Trek in incredible Chile.
EL Chalten is a small, relaxed mountain town, spoiled with a variety of hikes and walks all around. There are several routes from a beginner’s walks, to a challenging multi day hikes, as well as an option to combine many of them into a big, multi day one depending of your pace, fitness levels and time you wish to spend exploring. The following hikes are the main and most popular ones here, followed by the description of the rather big day trip I did.
Cerro Fitz Roy and Laguna de los Tres
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 20kms / 6-8 hours return / Intermediate
One of the most popular track in the area, leading you to the base of famous Cerro Fitz Roy. Trek itself is great for beginners, but can offer challenges from time to time, especially towards the end due to the steep climb right before reaching the Laguna de los Tres. Great day hike, but you can also stay overnight in either the Poincenot or Río Blanco campsites, if you wish to witness sunsets or sunrise on a main spots of the hikes.
Cerro Torre and Laguna Torre
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 18-20kms / 5-8 hours return / Intermediate
This hike is great for beginners without any steep climbs, and also if you only have a day to spend in El Chalten. You have an option to go directly to the Laguna Torre, or you follow the Corre Fitz Roy trek and take an alternative route past the Mirador Torre and through lush, thick forests were you can discover more of a local flora and fauna. Do not miss a little extension of the track to witness Glaciar Grande from the Maestri viewpoint,
Mirador Los Condores and Las Aguilas
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 2-4kms / 1-3 hours return / Easy
This short walk starts from the visitors centre, and offers you a bird’s eye view over the El Chalten, and is a perfect walk if you arrive early, of you have time to spare between the big hikes. You also will get a 360 degree panorama of both the Torre and Fitz Roy massifs and valley below. Great walk to experience without overwhelming effort.
Sendero Loma del Pliegue Tombado
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 24-30kms / 6-10 hours return / Intermediate
This route is less known yet perfect for people who want to avoid big crowds. It can be done in one day and is a fantastic alternative for the classic El Chalten hikes, or if you want to extend your stay and take a different point of view of the big highlights described above. You will have variety of ascents and descents as well as you will see lots of local wildlife. Do not miss climbing up to the mountain to see incredible 360 degree view of the whole area on a clear day!
If wanting to extend your hike for an extra day along unmarked trail, take a side trip from the half way point to the Laguna Toro. You need to register for climbing and trekking thou at the visitors centre for this option.
Salto El Chorrillo
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 2-4kms / 1-1.5 hours return / Easy
This shortest walk from the town centre is great introduction, or chill out walk on your recovery days. The route is flat, taking you to a small natural waterfall. Perfect to do if you arrived early, or you are leaving later on a day and can’t fit any longer hikes into your schedule.
Huemul Circuit
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 60kms / 2-5 days circuit / Hard
This big one is for experienced climbers only. I had a time limit due my travel plans and didn’t get a chance to explore this further, however what I know - there are some very challenging parts along the way, and is considered to be a most difficult trek on the region. There are options to take a guided tour for this if in doubt of your own skills.
Laguna Capri
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Argentina / 4kms / 3-4 hours return / Easy
Simply cannot forget this classic hike for hikers of all levels and true Patagonia experience. Lookouts over the plains and valleys, lush forests with local animals as well shores of the lakes, with the outline of the Fitz Roy in the background. Great alternative which is often ignored.
Arrival: EL chalten
I arrived to this idyllic mountain town early afternoon with a bus from Puerto Natales, Chile. Total time of travel was 7 hours and included a short transfer in El Calafate, which I chose to save till last, and be nearby the airport to avoid any surprises of delays at the day of my departure.
As you are arriving to the town, you have a first glimpse of majestic Cerro Fitz Roy, giving you chills what is ahead. Majestic, rugged mountains just asking to be explored. Patagonia, you are such a tease!
Upon arrival you will have a compulsory information stop at the visitors centre outlining the hikes, rules and regulations, and any other information you need. This is a great spot to visit for any concerns and tips you might have or need, or to check weather forecast and alert in the region. This is a starting point of few of the hikes so keep it in mind, and it is only short walk away from the town centre.
Once this was done, it was time to find the only ATM in this town to get some cash as there are no option to use credit cards in town. I opted a hostel stay due my short visit and my ever changing schedule. I only had short stay here with big hikes and long days planned, and I wan’t sure which exact day I was going to leave. Therefore my hostel located right on a doors step of the main hikes however the town is fairly small and this doesn’t really matter where you are.
I had a plan to do one of the small hikes right upon arrival however I chose to relax, get a good feed, explore the town itself and plan my upcoming big hikes - to make sure I get to do everything I wanted.
HIke #1: cerro fitz roy - cerro torre - mirados de los condores
This was a massive one. Even I was doubting my own decision. Knowing my limited time as well unstable weather coming up, I made unnerving decision to cover three hikes into a one, totalling about 42km stretch into one big one day push. It was going to a long day yet I was determent to accomplish it. First of all, I might not be back here again very soon, and second of all, this was my last big one of the whole South American trip. The weather window was also closing in and this is a big one to keep your eye on as so often, it can change within hours and if you have a great weather, you better make most of it.
First section was to go Laguna de los Tres to see Cerro Fitz Roy. I got up early and started my walk 5am to see the sights and enjoy quietness of the track without crowds. The hike was fairly easy with variety of the scenery from rugged weather beaten forests to the wetlands, as well as rocky climbs.
There are few campsites along the way if you wish to camp outdoors, and also reach this iconic mountain upon sunrise or sunset. Campamento Capri is the first stop about 2 hours walk from the El Calafate. I didn’t get to see this place as I took alternative route however map tells it is located next to the lake, roughly half way of the walk to the Cerro Fitz Roy. Second camp Campamento Poincenot is right at the base of the mountains hiding in a forest, where the hardest climb starts to the mountain top.
The climb is fairly steep and rocky, which takes roughly hour to complete. Once you reach the top, you have panoramic views of the area, as well as beautiful turquoise lake hiding form the eyes of crowds. I was hiking during the spring however this year winter lasted longer, and the lake was still fully frozen. This didn’t bother me thou, as the views were magnificent as you can see from the photos at the start of this page. Yet once again, I was all alone here, having it all to myself. Benefits of the off season and early start. Apparently during the hiking season this place gathers hundreds of people and no wonder, it’s truly iconic as you probably know already if reading this.
I spent half hour here enjoying my early lunch before staring the descent, retracting my steps for a while and taking a side route past Laguna Madre and Hija, which connects to the Laguna y Glaciar Torre and another iconic spot Cerro Torre. This section is pretty straight forward, without crowds as many choose to do these two hikes separately as a return trips from El Calafate. To think of it, it is a great option if you don’t like to camp along the way, or you have time and like to make hikes less demanding with rests between.
Cerro Torre is glazier lake with floating ice bergs breaking out from the Glaciar Torre. Another site I have wanted to see for years. As it was midday, the lake was busier but I had a plan to continue my hike just a little bit further on to the Mirador Maestri and have a closer look of the Glacier. The track is hardly marked and you need a little bit navigational skill and luck to find the track, however it is totally worth it adding one hour each way to your hike. Not everyone’s liking but I would recommend it fully. Another spot without crowds.
Sun was beaming high and the day was warm, perfect conditions to start the return - plus I had even more planned for the day. Return track was easy to navigate and flat, totalling of 4 hours hiking. It all stated well however as 10hours started to come full I realised maybe biting more that I could chew. Steps became heavier, legs hurting and mind telling to stop. However being stubborn, I didn't want to give up as I still had planned to do few small walks I decided to skip upon my arrival - Mirador Los Condores and Las Aguilas described earlier.
These walks offer you a views over the town, as well as back of the mountains. Great walks for the whole family, and also higher point of view of the mountains I just came from. At the time I was hiking this last bit was a total waste of time however hiking now later, I was glad I kept my stubbornness and did them, as I know I would have regretted the decision to skip them.
Probably biggest and a most challenging day of the South American trip however I knew I had only one big day to go, which also was less than this one. Also, I had already three weeks of constant travelling, hiking, high altitudes and 4WD road trip in the bag which probably started to show.
As incredible as the hike was, I was happiest man to hit the sack and sleep before one last early start of the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado walk. At the same time, knowing in few days this all would be over, I was sad.
Hike #2: loma del pliegue tumbado
The last big one! Eight hours hike with a summit climb coming up!! I was energised, hyped yet felt my body asking to stop hahah! Ummm, not quite yet.
This hike gives you are 360 degree views of the region, and alternative views point for the Fitz Route and Cerro Torre. The track starts from the visitors centre. As I walked across the town there were no people on sight. Sky was all clear which was a great sign, as the rain and storm was supposed to be crawling in following day.
I couldn’t believe how lucky I was. Usually this region is often beaten by rain and storms, stopping all the hikes like it happened to the group I met in Chile, and for me… I managed to be here to enjoy two day window of an incredible weather and sunshine - and able to complete all the hikes and more I had in my mind prior the trip.
The track goes across forests, open long fields, and rocky terrain. Seeing the signs of dangerous wild cows and hearing them in a forests surely gets your heart going hahah! Imagine, being attached by a cow in a track without crowds. The idea made me hope for ones having at least one fellow hiker to hit the track in case I’m moooooed over.. or something lol!
The track seems never ending as I was approaching the first view point. However once you reach it, you forget everything. Views above the Cerro Torre, straight to the Fitz Roy is magnificent. And once again seeing the route I was hiking day before gives you a sense of achievement and gratitude that I am able to do such things. I was looking around doubting thou if I was on a right spot as I didn’t have full 360 degree views I had read about - only to realise I was supposed to climb further up to the snow covered mountain on my left. Seriously?? One more to go??
Yet as said before, I am here and not sure if I will ever return, plus I have the weather on my side, and it’s my last big one so… start climbing. The track was a bit hidden and you need to navigate your own towards the zigzag pattern vaguely seen on a mountain side. Once you reach it the steep section starts offering you constant panoramic views as you get higher. As I reached the edge of snow I thought this is as the route ended. Hmmmm… I took another glimpse and saw few footsteps higher above, which means no stopping. Sneaky!
The climbs across the snow wasn’t hard or dangerous. Five minutes in and you passed the snow, stepping to the rocks again and summit reached! Eagles were flying around me as I admired the views I just witnessed earlier, along with full 360 degree views as well. I was speechless. not because I reached the summit, but as I knew this was it. Pretty much my holiday was coming to an end with the big hikes! I took extra time to reflect my experiences thought Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Life changing experience, which made me fall in love with South America, and graving to return and see more as soon as possible. (Which I had all planned and then COVID-19 arrived).
After one hours of reflecting my achievement and journey, I decided to head back. Seeing some people sipping this section and turning back from the first view point, as well as right from the snow line on this mountain I learned to appreciate my stubbornness as well hahah! Without it I wold have missed this last climb.
As I was hiking back to the town I made sure I told everyone I came across to reach the top of the mountain so they wouldn’t miss a thing.
As I finally reached my accommodation I realised I was ahead of my schedule and I was able to alter my plans slightly and take earlier bus to El Calafate, instead of staying night in El Chalten… And this would give me more time in El Calafate.
Let’s go!
Arrival: EL calafate
So I changed my plans slightly and took an earlier bus to El Calafate as I was lucky enough to have perfect conditions to do all the hikes, and a bit more, which I had in my “must do” list. After my successful final big hike I rushed to catch a late afternoon bus.
Arriving late evening to El Calafate I got a first glimpse of the nightlife in El Calafate. It felt strange after all the small, rustic and quiet towns: busy streets with polished signs and fancy restaurants packed with people. I almost immediately regret my decision to change my plans yet I kept reminding myself of upcoming last highlights and also a chance to make the most of the El Calafate. As it was off season I was able to alter my accommodation, have a great rest and add little bit extra to my visit.
I never been a bit fan of booking expensive tours or put a lot of money to exploration, however learning about Perito Moreno Glazier got me intrigued. How many times you have a chance to hike on one of the most impressive natural spectacles in the world. This ice field is the world's third largest reserve of fresh water, which also is one of the most stable glaciers grown in a same rate as it is break down.
As I arrive day earlier than my ice adventure, I had an extra day to explore the town. The town itself was less rustic as El Chalten, and more expensive as well as resort feel, and touristy I wasn’t particularly fan of. There are several attraction and places to visit, mostly related to the glaziers and see them up close however I wasn’t into paying to see them as I saw plenty of then in Patagonia and I had one coming up anyway. Althou I managed to find Laguna Nimez, which is a short 15 minute walk from the centre. This protected, ecological reserve is a haven for a great variety of birds, of which the largest and most fascinating is the Chilean flamingo. You also see a microcosm of the Patagonian landscape, encompassing examples of the plants and wildlife of wetlands, desert steppe and the shores of Lake Argentino. You have an option for a self-guided boardwalk which takes you around the whole reserve, where you can easily open up to three hours. Nice easy going visit matched with a great food in surrounding restaurants.
hike #3: perito moreno glazier in los glaciares national park
Sad to say but it was a last trip to nature with my South American travels. The Southern Patagonian ice field is the third largest ice field right after Antarctica and Greenland and Perito Moreno is giving everyone an opportunity to go and explore this magnificent natural sight right up and close.
Early start for a several hours shuttle ride, which took us to a deep into the mountain range. The ride went fairly fast while observing the ever changing landscape, which slowly transformed more rugged scenery along the way.
Once we reached to dock, we hopped into a boat which took us right at front of the glazier. The sounds of breaking ice echoing throughout the mountains never gets boring. Upon arrival we were split into a few groups, and got an explanation about the tour, as well as what to take to account regarding safety.
As we were making our way to the edge of the glazier, we got a closer look of the unreal blue and clear wall of ice. It truly feel something unnatural, yet at the same time I couldn’t help but see similarities with New Zealand once again. Another reminder how once upon a time these continents were one.
We got fitted with the more serious crampons, which allowed us to start the hike which requires a certain way of walking to make it safe.
Whoa… the hike itself was several hours long in a ever changing glazier, where safe routes kept on changing constantly, and special care needed to be taken. Therefore the distance isn’t huge however the experience is indescribable. The stories of glaciers itself, the area, history and sights truly makes you appreciate these snowy disappearing wonders of nature. Thanks climate change! This is already highly visible in New Zealand however somehow Perito Moreno still hangs on to create new ice at the same rate as it disappears.
The ice itself is nice and almost smooth at the top of the sheet. Not sharp and rugged as it usually can been seen from the wall itself when the ice breaks. I would be so easy to just disappear to the environment.
After a several hours we return from the hike and get a taste of the purest ice… well, glazier ice with the Whiskey. Now this is what you call true Whiskey on the rocks!
We took a short walk back to the dock, jumped to the boat to get another close look of the glazier from the water, further on to the shuttle and went to do further trip to the Los Glaciares National Park, which gives you are different point of view of the glazier itself. If you are not able to do the hike, this place is fully worth visiting to get overview of the glazier from the maze of paths and viewing platforms. Do not miss this if you are at the area.
As we were driving back to the El Calafate, I was thinking about my last four weeks. What an adventure, which made me fall in love with the South America! I cannot wait to see more, however luckily I still got a small adventure ahead in Buenos Aires I was flying later at the evening.
Departure: el calafate to Buenos Aires
Back at the hotel I quickly grabbed my gear and jumped to the shuttle to the small airport. Time to see culture, relax and finally explore all the culinary treats Argentina has to offer in Buenos Aires! Thank you Patagonia, and I simple can’t wait to return!!
To summarise it, well not much to say but simply speechless! I feel so grateful to achieve everything I planned and a bit more, without missing anything because of the weather or not a single delay with a various of tours, hikes and transportation. I truly had been lucky with Mother Nature to capture everything I had planned throughout the last 4.5 weeks. Plus I managed to do everything I wanted, and a bit more within the time frame I had left. Not to mention I had a feel of relaxation with chilled days - in both hot sunny weather as well as cold snowy adventures.
If you are interested hearing my itinerary, I am more than happy to share it with all the flights and busses involved. Feel free to reach out via Instagram any time!
quick tips:
If you are using a bus to travel, make sure you are booking them as early as possible as they are on high demand with limited spaces. All seat are allocated prior the departures and some times are extremely popular.
EL Chalten is spoiled with a selection of hikes and routes. Study the local map well you literally can find everywhere and look out the hiking times, which are great for planning.
Get cash as there are no option to use credit cards. There is only one ATM in town, which might be faulty, or ran out of money as I found out upon arrival.
Allow time due the ever changing weather conditions. Patagonia is famous for it’s rapid weather changes. I was lucky enough to have perfect conditions to do all I had planned however this is not the case most of a times. Therefore if you have limited time, it is great to choose one of the towns to be able to do your “must do” activities, and then add on more in case you end up having more time. If you don’t have an option or time to visit both towns, you got a choice between El Chalten, which is more rustic, small mountain town vibes with lot of hiking options, or more resort style, touristy and lightly more expensive El Calafate.
Great thing is you have so much to explore in such a small area with short travel times.
There are few specially marker ‘Meeting Point’ along the way, which are great if hiking in a group with different levels of fitness and speed.
Few notable things: Do not feed the animals or take pets with you. Be respectful so no radios and oud music to disturb natural wildlife. No fire and avoid contaminating the water so no swimming. And no drones! Nowadays you might get arrested for this without permits. Agains, take all the rubbish with you and keep on formed tracks.
South America, you stole my heart!