new zealand: kepler track

Fiordland National Park, Southland / 60kms / 2-4 days loop / Intermediate

Kepler track is one of the Great Walks located near the town of Te Anau, in Southland region of New Zealand. This track is one of the most incredible trekking experiences you can find in the New Zealand and it is extremely accessible due the near by town Te Anau, as well as it is circular, loop track which helps with the logistics of the transportation. Rocky mountains ridges, lake shores, deepest gorges, wetland and rivers, as well as tall, mossy and vibrant forests offer incredible variety of the scenery and landscapes in such a short time.

Track is fairly easy to walk due the high standards of huts, bridges, boardwalks and steps. Therefore fit person is able to compete the whole track in two days, even the suggestions is to spend three to four days out in the track. If time is restricted, and you are not fully sure about your fitness level, there are also option to take few shortcuts in forms of water taxi, and shuttle service both at a start and end of the track and this way cut out almost full day of your hiking time, which doesn’t cause any missing highlights of the track. This also gives you a change to cut a costs slightly, in form of skipping few huts. During the great walk season hut beds are pricey, which will quickly add up unless you prefer camping - which is allowed on an allocated spots. Of course, other option is to complete the track outside of the Great Walking Season, when prices are lower, and huts are ‘first come first serve’. However, it is worth noting hut are limited with services such as no gas for cooking and such.

You also have a chance to do the track either way, however anti clock wise is slightly less demanding due the track profile with less climbing. This direction is also more popular, and you don’t have constant flow of people around you.

The rack is extremely exposed, and the weather can change within minutes. During my hike I was exposed to direct, scorching sunlight, gust winds, snow storm… followed by torrential rain. All within 4 hours. Event the track is fairly busy, make sure you are fully equipped for all conditions.

Arrival: te anau

I made a plan to stay in the Te Anau, which is a great small coastal town with a great central access to all around Fiordland National Park and Milford Sound. You have a chance to stay any level of accommodation here and get any the last minute equipment you require.

I arrived day earlier just to make sure I had a chance to organise my hut permits from the DOC office, as well as relax and find out all the transport information. I was limited with a time due my plans to complete several hikes, and I decided to use a water taxi to skip the first few hours of hiking (5.6 kilometres), as well as shuttle out of the track to cut another three hours (9.5 kilometres) from the last day. These sections were mostly covered forests and therefore I wasn’t concerned to miss anything I wouldn’t experience somewhere else on track.

Day 1: Te anau to irish burn hut

I took a first water taxi from the town to Brod Bay Campsite, which was the starting point of my 23 kilometre day one walk. This included the big and only climb of a track to the Forest Burn saddle, elevation 1000 meters in a highly exposed conditions from intense sunshine to gusty, strong winds. This took roughly 5 hours to complete depending if you are taking few side trips along the track.

First stop came after four hours of climb - Luxmore Hut. I had made a decision to skip this hut however I made a quick stop to make friends with cheeky keas. Thee incredibly curious and intelligent parrots are known for their habits of ripping a hiking gear apart if left unattended. Friendly hut warden shard some stories of them, and how their numbers are declining due poisoning and other threads. Lot of the keas are marked so their habits can be observed.

There is also a chance for 20 minute return side trip to Luxmore Cave, which is worth visiting. Make sure you have two light sources per person as you climb down underground cave and natural light slowly fades away as you go deeper. Fascinating place with underground stream.

From the hut you continue to climb further along the mountain, while you admire panoramic views of the Te Anau basin, Takitimu Mountains and the all and Snowdon Mountains. If you have a fine weather, don’t forget the take another 30 minute side trip to Luxmore Summit.

After having a sunny, hot day I felt a cold front, as well as winds, coming in as I started the descent to the Forest Burn saddle. As I reached the saddle, I saw a snow storm coming in which gave an extra excitement and experience of the Kepler Track. However, due the cold conditions and snow, the rocks in the ridge line came extremely slippery and as I didn’t pay enough attention - I slipped and rolled my left ankle 30 minutes away from the Hanging Valley Emergency Shelter. As the snow storm was only getting stronger, and the saddle didn’t have any shelter, I decided to continue to the shelter where I would be able to get my first aid kit out and take a closer look of my ankle.

After painful 40 minutes of hopping, I reached the shelter. Luckily closer look didn’t reveal any major injury of my ankle, and I was able to put some pressure on it, as well as tape it to be a bit more stable, so I could continue to the Irish Burn Hut.

During this two hour ascent snowing turned into a rain, and by the time if reached the hut I was soaked, yet glad I finally got to take my shoes off and have a rest, and great feed! There is a another 40 minute return side trail to Irish Burn Waterfall, and in a night time you have a chance to see glow worms along the track, or ever Kiwi if lucky!

What can I say… Day one wasn’t the one I expected to be but hey… like I keep on saying, it’s all part of the journey and adventure. This section took roughly 10 hours to complete, including the side trip into the cave.

Day 2: Irish Burn Hut to rainbow reach

Due the injury I got previous day, I decided to leave hut early to make sure I will be catching my shuttle from the Rainbow Reach as I needed to slow down my walking. 22 kilometre walk is pretty flat through the forest and a gorge. Night rain made the whole surrounding to glitter and occasional drizzle formed continuous rainbows along the way. Definitely lifted my mood!

This section is pretty straight forward, and it is nice to have just leisurely walk for a change and enjoy as the nature wakes up. The track is well formed without any difficult sections and therefore it is fairly fast. The Moturau Hut is located right next to a Lake Manapouri you have a chance to have a refreshing swim, or even stay overnight if you wish so. I decided to head near by smaller hut and take a closer look of the lake and a river mouth. As I realised I had made progress much faster than I expected, I made the use of it by having a few hour break with swim and lunch, and just enjoy the stillness by the lake.

It is roughly 1.5 hours walk to the Rainbow Reach, where you have an option to end your walk, or if you wish to complete the full circuit - you can continue to the Kepler Track Shelter and car park, 10 kilometres further on. The section I had left was again easy, with continuous views of the lake, as well as a chance for a side trip across a wetlands.

As I was closing Rainbow Reach I saw the swing bridge which took me over the Waiau River, straight to the car park where my shuttle was pocking me up. The river is a great spot for fishing and kayaking.

At this point I was glad to my decision as my ankle was giving me serious grief. As I stepped into the shuttle, my mind was already on an upcoming Hump Ridge Track starting next day, without a chance for a rest and rest my foot… I was hesitating, but decided to take another look in a morning how I would feel.

All and all, this was one of the most scenic hikes I have done. Easy access and circuit track which makes transportation so much easier, plus options to make it shorter if you have limited time, or just doubt your fitness level, surely makes it appealing for many.

No wonder it is so popular. Even so, that they have Kepler Challenge early, where runners run the whole track just under 5 hours. Now that would be a whole another level of experience.

quick tips:

Plan your trip well and make sure you tell someone of your plans.

You have few option of doing the loop either directions. Anti clock wise is slightly easier with less climbing. Also, you can shorten the track by taking a water taxi, or shuttle in and out of the track if you are limited with time.

Check the weather conditions - again and again, and always be prepared to turn back if it changes for the worse.

Know your limits, health and fitness levels - and if in doubt, don’t hesitate to turn back.

Bring everything you need with you, and out of the track - including ALL the rubbish. Also, remember to bring snacks and food to replenish your strength as you need it during the days. Pack accordingly for all eventualities such as emergencies, or you may be stranded for one reason or another.

Consider every scenario - the weather, emergencies and other conditions as the track is extremely exposed.

Consider taking hiking poles with you, as well as a personal locator beacon, and allow plenty of time.

Prepare to be amazed!