Peru: Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu
Cusco, Peru / 75 kms / 3-5 days / Hard
Salkantay Trek is an alternative trail to the traditional, and most popular Inca Trail for reaching Machu Picchu. This is less crowded trail, crossing the Salkantay Pass at 4600 meters passing the Ica ruins Llactapata with a views of Machu Picchu. The trek is usually completed in five days, however it can be done in four days like I did.
Best way to do the track is doing it with a tour operator. I booked this prior my trip to South America just to assure I was all ready to go, however there are many tour operators in Cusco if you have time and wish to look around there available selections and pricing. Also, there are different routes, selections of level of accommodation from sampling to the high end lodges, as well as staring point with less transportation to save money - so you definitely won’t be short of options based on your liking, time and budget.
If you have an experience, you are able to hike this trail alone. Just keep in mind you are in high altitude with freezing temperatures when looking at gear required. Also, map is super important as there are several trails crossing each other and it is easy to take wrong turn. And on top of this, you are required to boil or treat the water no matter where you get it due the high contamination, as well as have food for at least 2.5days.
AND to top of this all, you need to be prepared with the climate. Hiking in a high altitude you are in danger to have altitude sickness. You have an option to climatize at Cusco prior your hike, which usually takes from fe days to several weeks. Other option is to start medication prior your trip, which I did and found it sufficient without any problems. And.. be fit as you pass the mountains at 4600 meters on day two.
Arrival: cusco, peru
I had a massive plan for this trip and therefore I decided to do the hike in four days. I started a medication for high altitude few days prior my trip, which seemed to work. I didn’t find staying in Cusco challenging at all, even I came from the sea level straight to the altitude of 3370 meters.
However as I had few days in Cusco, I did rookie mistake of attending few day trips which took me over n higher altitudes and I sure noticed the altitude with full day touring and walks. Noted for the next trip hahah!
There are so much to see and explore in and around Cusco if you have time. From ancient ruins and history to natural wonders such as Rainbow Mountains, which can be found from the other section here.
The selection of the tours mind staggering, so you don’t have to worry about booking day trips prior. I had booked the Salkantay Trek prior thou, to make sure I will keep on track with my schedule and as the hikes can literally sell out - especially the traditional Inca Trail as the government only allows restricted number of people to the trail.
My tour included partial gear transfers as well as meals prepared along the way. This was purely due the limited time I had for this and instead of wasting my energy and time to carry everything, and cooking, I decided to put a main focus to experience a scenery and saving energy for faster pace walking. There is no right or wrong options, you choose your preferred form of exploration.
If you are planning to climb one of the mountains at the Machu Picchu to see overview of the ruins, you need to book these months advance. Especially the Huayna Mountain.
Day before the hike I went to the group I was hiking with, and also get the bags and gear for the hike. My hike included the transportation to Challacancha, which was 12 kilometres from the first stop - Soraypampa. The tour also included a main gear transportation between the camps, meals and medium level accommodation. I usually prefer more rustic and authentic hiking, however due the time limitations, high altitude and not having enough of time to properly acclimatize, as well as budget and needing to travel with less gear - I decided to do it this way to make most of it to allow myself to truly enjoy the scenery, views and nature and history of the Incas.
day 1: cusco to soraypampa and humantay lake
I was picked up 5am from the accommodation, central Cusco. We were heading to get a hearty breakfast at the Mollepata, where we also were given the access passes to the hike. Once finishing the breakfast, we took a short ride further along to Challacancha, which was our start point of the hike. Hike was a great entry point for the following days, to get a sense of terrain and start immersing with the track as we were following Inca Canals. As the sun was shining, we reached the Soraypampa in no time (12 kilometres), located in 3870 meters high. From here we chose our beds from the glass domes, dropped the bags and we were given an option to hike further along 4291 meters hight, to see Humantay Lake.
Climbing on loose rock started to give a true sensation what was ahead for the following day, in high altitude. The climb required multiple stops however I knew what was ahead from seeing a multiple photos of the Humatay, I was determined to do this side trip.
The glazier lake rests quietly in the shadow of the Humantay mountain. Just as I arrived it started snowing, giving an extra dramatic view of this beautiful spot.
The return is the same as the climb.
As the evening arrived, we sat down for our first prepared dinner, discussion about the hike ahead. We were assured the won’t be any wight loss happening, and I can assure it is true. Meals are highly card focussed to replenish the energy, and loading it for the challenges ahead.
As a thundering sounds of breaking ice was cutting through the darkness, I slowly drifted asleep watching the stars and deep blue universe through the class ceiling of my glass igloo, as the temperature was dropping even further down outside. What a way to start the most exciting main hike the next say!
day 2: soraypampa to chaullay via Salkantay pass
Day two is know as the most challenging day. The total hike is about 22 kilometres, however it all starts with a continuous climb up to the 4638 meters, the the Salkantay Pass over the mountains.
As soon as our guides backed the bigger gear (we were only allowed to pack 7 kilos into he given bags, rest had to be carried ourselves), we started the climb. The first 300 meter elevation was fairly easy, following a road with a Salkantay Mountain rising right at from of us, as seen form the photo above. Sun was shining and the mood was up. Once we reached the 300 meter mark of a climb, we stopped for a quick break. This place is called Salkantaypampa - small grass field which separates the Salkantay Trek and longer, original Inca Trail which climbs even higher (this trail later on attaches to the shorter, crowded Inca Trail).
After a sort break we started the main climb, continuous climbing up to the pass. This route includes the famous ‘The trail of 7 snakes’, which is narrow and steep zigzag route on a side of the mountain. Our group broke free from the path and free climbed along the rocks to avoid queues, as this section can easily been blocked with slower hikers.
The last 500 meter elevation doesn’t sound like a big task, which I also underestimated due the fact I have done much more demanding climbs before, however I forgot the one major factor… the altitude. The climb was brutal. Without a proper acclimatisation and sandy, small screen it felt like talking a one set forward and two steps back as your foot kept on slipping backwards after every step. Also every step felt like sprinting as I was gasping the air into my lungs.
‘Why I am putting myself through such a thing’ I was thinking, as I was steadily reaching the pass. Yet once reaching the top all the thought were gone. As the freezing wind blows all around you, while admiring the Salkantay Mountains, you feel once again a sense of gratitude and humbleness. This is what I am here for, seeing a glimpse of ancient culture what Inca’s have gone though during their time - and literally following their foot steps they once travelled.
Speechless.
After a quick rest you start the 1800 meter elevation climb down. It’s a long, and I mean looooong stretch which will test your joints, however you are treated with ever changing views of the valley ahead, as well as native animals curiously following your journey. Note to remember, do NOT feed these as often this will cause their death.
Jut as I was thinking of arriving to the next stop, the path was continuing further on. And again. And again… I finally believed why the second day is truly getting it’s name from. However the fact I had a chance to get a hot shower, and cold beer, was giving me extra boost to rush ahead before the dark.
And what a reward it was! Shower has never felt so good, so make sure you take some cash with you. Nothing wrong to treat you with a little treat.
Another carb loaded meal, and reflection of the day as the night arrived. This time we were staying in an Andean campsite, in a traditional Andean huts. Hard to believe next day will be all about arriving back from the jungle, before the day four and the Machu Picchu.
day 3: Chaullay to aquas calientes
26 kilometers, back to the civilisation. This section is all about enjoying and reflecting your last day as you walking along the river, and by the Amazon jungle. Just listening the sound of the jungle and being greeted colourful hummingbirds set my imagination and curiosity to go sometimes to explore the jungle itself.
Our tour, as it was only four day trip, we had a cheat transportation from Lucmabamba to Hidroelectrica. This section is basically continuing walk on a road along the river with an additional night stay in Lucmabamba’s jungle domes. I would say this doesn’t offer anything extra for your hike until your reach the Hidroelectrica - which is a train station to the Aquas Calientes. We walked the along the train track, occasionally skipping the side to avoid getting hit by a train, however if you wish to pay some extra, you can get a train and skip this lengthy three-four hour walk. I would say this section doesn’t offer other than views of the Machu Picchu, and secret ice cream spots which were welcomed surprises to break the walk.
As I sat the first glimpse of the ruins, I also saw the Machu Picchu Mountain as well as Huayna Mountain. The scene was unreal, ruins way up high and mountains even higher, which we would have to conquer the following day. Just a little bit dounting sight but I’m sure it is quote a different view once on a top of it all.
Finally I reached the Aquas Calientes. We were staying in a hostel, given an instructions for the next day and option… either climb 500 meters to the Machu Picchu, or skip the hike and take a bus with extra cost.
I chose the bus. I still had 1000 meter climb up to the Machu Picchu Mountains to oversee the ruins. This was rightly going to take 3 hours to complete, and I didn’t want to waste hours of climbing up the the Machu Picchu by walking a road. l wanted to do both climb the mountain, as well explore the ruins with time.
Good night, let the morning arrive already.
Day 4: Machu Picchu and Machu Picchu mountain
So I decided to skip the 6 kilometre, 500 meter elevation climb. After a quick breakfast I took a quick walk to the bus stops, and starts roughly 1 hours queueing to the busses, which were going hourly. Again, you are not able to book this prior so make sure you plan your departure times. There is a high demand of the transport to se "‘Paradise on the Earth’, and you want to make sure you get to spend as long as you can there to explore.
As I arrive to the Mach Picchu, another queue to the ticket office to get an entry to the park. Not what I was expecting however it’s right there waiting for me.
I decided to head first to climb to the Mach Picchu Mountain. Steep climb took roughly one hour to complete, with several stops to admire the ruins as I got higher and higher. Once on a top, the view was incredible as seen from the photo above. The ruins below, as well as more popular and sold out Huayna Mountain. I have finally ticked this off from the bucket list. I had no intention to rush back!!
I would suggest to climb either mountain, and this is a great option if the more popular is sold out. You don’ need to climb all the way up as you get the views along the way if you don’t want to, it’s too challenging, or you are about to run out of time.
The return was the same, and in no time I was back where I started from exploring the ruins, history, and admire the secrets of this magical place. What a way to finalise one of the most incredible hikes! I think I have fallen in love with Peru and I cannot wait to come back. In a short time I have been blessed to witness the sites of Aztec, Maya and Inca and see the similarities as well as differences. And I am graving more information.
After few hours I had to head back to the bus station, followed by my hostel to get my gear, and further on to the main train station to reach Ollantaytambo, where my tour company was waiting to take us back to the Cusco.
We arrived late back to the town. I got a quick dinner, and returned my accommodation just to crash in to my bed, as I had another adventure ahead following day - Rainbow Mountain.
Zzzzzzz…. alarm is set for 4am!
Quick tips:
Best time to do this trek is at the dry season, from April to November. The most popular time is from June to September.
Plan advance whatever hike you wish to take. Inca trail is often sold out. Salkantay track is great option if you want to avoid big crowds and see more nature. Less ruins thou. Also note the time of the year.
Book early, as this track is limited with a number of people per day, and often sells out. Lot of options online, however also competitive offers at Cusco if you wish to look options.
Make sure you start medication for altitude sickness if possible. Althou Machu Picchu is lower than Cusco which helps.
Inca trail requires a guide. Salkantay can be done independently however it requires great amount of planning.
Worth doing with the company and pre made meals, and option to carry only essentials as altitude is giving challenge. Also, you will enjoy more of the track and sights.
Bring money if want to shower or purchase extra food or even beer haha!
Consider taking hiking poles with you.