new zealand: Mt taranaki summit climb

Egmont National Park, Taranaki / 6.3kms one way / 6-10hrs return / Advanced

Mount Taranaki Summit climb in the Egmont National Park is one of the most incredible trekking experiences you can find in the North Island of New Zealand. This 2518m high dormant volcano is not for the light hearted and even it might seem like child’s play - it is more difficult and dangerous than it may appear. It is important to attempt the track in good weather conditions, as it can change in a matter of minutes. Therefore, don’t be surprised if you start the trek with clear blue skies, then along the way you may be hammered with gusty winds, rain and a full cover of clouds without any trace of visibility of your surroundings. I cannot highlight enough how important it is to check, even up till till the last minute, the weather conditions and predictions for the day. It is also important to acknowledge the fact that if the weather turns suddenly, you might be required to turn back - do not push through no matter what.

The climb requires a high level of fitness and trekking experience. The total time of the trek takes between 7-10 hours from the start to finish (4.5-6 hours up and 2.5-4 hours down), depending on your form. The distance is 6.3kms one way. Therefore, this can be done as a day hike, however there is an option to stay overnight in the Tahurangi Lodge, which is 1492m elevation from sea level (the start of the hike is around 900m above sea level). This is highly recommended if you wish to witness an incredible sunrise from the summit. So be prepared to break a sweat as the vertical climb equates to over 1500m - but it will be worth it.

If you are a non-mountaineer, the best time to climb is between January to March, when the mountain is often clear of snow and ice, except the crater, that has a snowfield all year around. If you attempt to do the climb during the winter, make sure you have crampons, ice axe and also have the experience of such a hike. During the shoulder season it is good to have ice cramps or an axe with you - just in case - for crossing the crater, so as not to miss the last climb to the summit itself. Generally the summit temperature is about 15 degrees celcius cooler than the coast, so make sure you have the appropriate gear and clothing with you. For any doubt; seek advice from the Department of Conservation and Egmont National Park visitors centre.

The track does not have water available along the way, so make sure you are fully equipped straight from the start.

Make sure you start early enough to allow plenty of time to complete the hike before sunset. This also allows you to stop along the way to fully appreciate the views all around you.

Mt Taranaki summit can be reached starting from either the Stratford Plateau entrance on Pembroke Road in Stratford, or from the North Egmont entrance. My hike I am covering is the route from North Egmont entrance. For more information of the Stratford route, and also North Egmont, you can find all the relevant information on the Department of Conservation website.

Arrival: new plymouth

I made a plan to stay in New Plymouth, which is a great coastal town roughly 12 kms from the National Park. I reserved a total of five days for my visit just to make sure there were plenty of days to attempt the climb, and fill the rest of the days with small day hikes, including Dawson Falls and East Egmont walk, while waiting for the perfect weather window for the main climb. Or purely just relax ands eat my heart out lol!

I aimed to attempt the climb as soon as possible when I arrived in New Plymouth, however nature had other plans. The mountain had high winds which stopped any attempt to hike for the following few days. While I was waiting for good conditions to appear, I opted to do the other hikes described above, which were a nice warm up, with great views of the mountain.

climb: The north egmont visitors centre to the summit

On the third day the weather was perfect. When I woke up, I confirmed from the weather report that it was all go. I drove to the North Egmont Visitors Centre and started the hike around 4.30am as I wanted to beat the crowds - and also witness the sunrise from the mountain during the climb. You can park your vehicle at the visitors centre, however it fills up fairly early. When I arrived, there were some people already cooking breakfast and preparing for the climb. There is an option to take organised transport from New Plymouth, however this means you will start the hike later in the morning, along with the bigger crowds.

Upon arrival, I already saw little rays of lights high up in the distance, from the people who wanted to reach the peak, and witness the sunrise from the highest point of the Mt Taranaki. I was slightly envious, however happy with my decision to do the trek during the day time, as it was my first time on this track. There is always the next time to enjoy the sunrise from the summit, once the track is more familiar to me.

The first section is mainly walking on dirt road, sheltered by forest - this is not a highly demanding section, even thou it is pretty steep. The section takes roughly 2 hours until you reach the Tahurangi Lodge, which is a perfect spot to have a little snack before the more demanding sections ahead. This is also the last chance for a toilet stop for the rest of the climb. If you are planning to spend more time in the park and take another route, you can leave your excess gear at the hut, however make sure you have all the required gear with you for a day hike - and be covered for any possible and sudden weather change.

Right after the Lodge is a steeper climb, which is more exposed to the elements. Hongi Valley required some rock hopping along the path before reaching leg-punishing stairs leading out of the valley. I took extra time here to make sure I could witness the incredible, breath-taking views of the central North Island. As the sun started to rise, it was a truly memorable moment. I could see more people staring their climb from the hut below - and so with lots of photos, and quarter of an hour admiring the view, it was time to continue on.

The next part was one of the most challenging sections, a steep slope with loose scree (gravel) on top of solid rock. It was pretty much two steps forward and one slide back. Two and one - and repeat for the next hour. This is highly exposed area and the climb is slow. Imagine climbing a sand dune, or a wet grassy hill. Take your time, by placing your steps carefully. As I was climbing, I tried to use hiking poles to help, however I personally found them useless due the steepness of the hill. As the sun was rising up slowly, I was treated to a sight of an aerial plane circling the mountain. A nice added bonus and distraction from the demanding challenge.

After a full hour of sweating, I reached The Lizard, a rocky formed ridge, where I had to constantly climb over the large, steep scoria rocks, which took another hour to complete. I would recommend having gloves for this section, but be warned: they most likely will wear out due to volcanic, rough scoria material - like mine did.

I took a several little breaks along the way to admire the views and surroundings, as I knew I had plenty of time due to my early start. I can’t imagine anything worse than doing the whole climb rushed, missing any of the views around you as you progress. Yes, you have all of those ahead of you when you descend - however quite often the descent requires extra attention. Most accidents happen on the way down, especially in such a demanding and steep mountain face like this one and you spend most of the time staring at your hiking boots.

At the end of The Lizard is the summit crater covered with a snowfield all year around. Crossing the crater can be very slippery and requires a lot of care. The ice crampons or ice axe is required if attempting this during winter, and even during a shoulder season these might also be required - otherwise you might miss the summit itself, and you don’t want that after all the effort made this far.

After the crater, it was only a small, 15 minute climb to reach the summit and witness the breath-taking views. And just like that the entire struggle was a distant memory, leaving me with a big beaming smile. I was lucky enough to have extremely rare weather with clear blue skies, not a single cloud in sight. Often the mountain has cloud cover obscuring any vies to be seen. There were also only a handful of other climbers on the summit, which gave this extra special feel of isolation. I got a perfect view across the region below, Tasman Sea and even the mountain range of the Tongariro National Park (as seen in the sunrise photo earlier), all the way to the South Island and the Southern Alps. Time to high five yourself… you made it!

descent: The summit to north egmont visitors centre

Spend some well earned time before the decent, have a lunch and regain strength. This is where most accidents happen so make sure you take time, and climb down at a slow pace. My tip for the descent is to use walking poles to give you extra support - especially with the loose scree. Sink your foot into the loose part of the gravel, but be careful not to cause big rock slides, endangering the people climbing up. I personally had so much fun practicing my rock/sand skiing skills on the loose gravel while staying on the side of the main path, which made descending extra exciting. Be prepared to have jelly legs at the end of what was the most grueling workout - once this section was done.

The track I chose was exactly the same route as my climb up was, finishing at the visitors centre car park, while enjoying the sunshine and beauty of the region. There were hundreds of people coming up as I was descending and I was truly pleased that I started as early as I did. Once reaching the visitors centre I signed the visitors book, put some fresh clothes on, made the short drive to New Plymouth and the nearest beach to have a well earned dip in the sea, a beer and view of the mountain, which was slowly being covered with clouds. Perfect timing! As I was smiling, I was already thinking of my return, to explore more of Egmont National Park and complete Around the Mountain Circuit and Pouakai Circuit, and further appreciate this majestic North Island mountain. Thank you, till we meet again!

Quick tips:

Plan your trip well and make sure you tell someone of your plans.

You have basically two starting points to do the hike: Stratford Plateau entrance on Pembroke Road in Stratford, or North Egmont entrance.

Check the weather conditions - again and again, and always be prepared to turn back if it changes for the worse.

Know your limits, health and fitness levels - and if in doubt, don’t hesitate to turn back.

There is no water along the track, so bring everything you need with you. Also, remember to bring snacks and food to replenish your strength as you need it. Pack accordingly for all eventualities such as emergencies, or you may be stranded for one reason or another.

Consider every scenario - the weather, emergencies and other conditions.

Take gloves and hiking poles with you, as well as a personal locator beacon, and allow plenty of time.

Prepare to be amazed!