new zealand: Gillespie Pass circuit

Mt Aspiring National Park, Otago / 58kms / 3-4 days loop / Advanced with river crossing skills

Arrival: Wanaka

This small resort town with a views of mountains is a great location for exploring Mt Aspiring National park as well as skiing at winter with multiple resorts short drive away. The Department of Conservation office is also here - where you should visit to get the latest hiking information from thee weather to the tracks and huts. Also, any last minute equipment and food you need - can be found from the shops. My absolutely favourite spot to visit, and I find myself visiting Wanaka several times every year just to relax.

Day 1: wanaka to young hut

The start of the track is roughly 50 minutes drive from Wanaka, heading towards Haast located at the east coast of South Island. I decided to get water taxi to the Young River from the Makarora, which is the starting point for many, to avoid extra hike along the river, and also skip the first river crossing across the Makarora River. I was glad about this decision as the water level was high, and I would have required to wait few hours it to drop to a safe level.

If you don’t want to get wet from the start, you can park further up to the Blue Pools car park, but this means you have to walk 7 kilometres along the Blue-Young Track to reach the Young River, where the track officially starts.

First 3-4 hours is a fairly gentle and relaxing walk next to the river with a wide, open fields where gentle wind blows from the mountains, and welcomes you to this rugged, less traveled track. I absolutely loved the open space and scenery stretching as far ahead as I could see. Even I am a fan of climbs and mountains, it is truly pleasure to have a gentle start of the day, while enjoying the sunshine.

Once reaching the first over the river bridge, you start your first steep 100 meter climb before reaching the 20-bunk Young hut. If you are camping, the campsite is right after the bridge. By this time I only came across two other people hiking clockwise, who said I was the only person they had seen for two days. Now that is a music to my ears.

I reached the hut fairly early without great amount of effort (although I did lose the track once due the high grass, so it is good to keep your eyes open), and decided to chop some wood as a wood reserve was low. It is all about giving something back and look after fellow hikers. As the evening started to settle in, a total of 7 hikers were in the hut sharing stories - some planning to do full circuit, some only return trip. It is nice to see this side of the track is fairly quiet before Siberia Hut next day, as it is bigger with an easier access - it even has a small airport for luxury tourists.

day 2: young hut to siberia hut - via crucible lake

Knowing this day would be a long one and physically challenging, I started early with no intention to waste any time. On top of the 6-8 hour hike to the Siberia hut, which includes the massive 1000 meter climb over the Gillespie Pass, I had planned a side trip to see Crucible Lake. This 5 kilometre return hike had another big climb, which added roughly 6 hours to my day. I have to admit once again, there is something incredibly calming to hike while nature is waking up slowly while the air is slightly crispy.

After 1.5 hours of flat walk I reach the end of the basin, which was a starting point for a Gillespie Pass track, and the main climb. The track is extremely steep and I couldn’t help but thinking how difficult and slow it would be ascent. My choice of hiking direction was definitely right. There are section you are required to climb using both hands and feet due the steepness of the mountain. It took roughly 5 hours to reach 1600 meter height of the pass but man… the view along the way is breathtaking as Mount Awful is watching over you from the skyline as you make your way to the summit.

I knew I had some time to spare, so I decided to explore the pass further on, have a lunch and purely enjoy the views as I was there all alone. Seeing the Young River where I came from, and my next destination Siberia Stream at the distance was powerful moment - and just to remind how far I had come and how far I still have to go. And the spot I was able to see, was only the spot where I would start my side trip to the Crucible Lake.

The ascent was less steep luckily, so I had time to look around the scenery and views, and not just focus of staring my feet for safe and secure footings. It is not easy thou - the steep hill was covered with snow grass, which is extremely slippery especially if it has even slight bit of moistures such as morning rain. There were several times I fell, almost injuring myself. But once back on a valley floor, you continue easy walk along the Gillespie Stream.

Total of 5 hour of hike, I was in a cross section - one path leading the Siberia Hut being just 45 minutes away, other to the Crucible Lake taking roughly 3 hours each direction. This side trip is recommended to do as a sepa rate trip and later on I fully understood why. The track requires another steep climb, which is even more rugged than previously, and also several river crossing - so be prepared to have a wet shows and feet. The floor of the river is extremely rocky and slippery, so you are required to wear your rigid footwear to do these. Few of the crossings are wide but shallow, and one further up is deeper with a more power. The climb and crossing require extra time, and shouldn’t be attempted if the weather conditions are bad.

The Crucible Lake is secretly hiding behind the rocky hill (see picture above) as the glacier ice flows in it. Clearest blue water with ice block floating in it quietly. All this surrounded by high walls covered with waterfalls. Magical! Unfortunately there were no much spare time to waste and stay for hours, however I managed to enjoy the place all alone for a half hour, before viewing the valley I had arrived, and I was about to return. It was time to re-track my steps back to the Siberia River, and further on to the Siberia Hut for well earned rest. Time seemed to pass much faster, as it often does with a return trips.

All I can say, the day was brutal but it was totally worth every doubt! Note of advice though… consider making the Lake a separate trip unless you have a great level of fitness and weather is absolutely superb.

The hut was much busier, however I was ready to rest, and have an unusual luxury… sleep in the next day as the last bit of hike was short and sweet to meet my transport out of the track. Jet boat ride!

day 3: siberia hut to makarora

It’s a bliss to have a sleep in, which in my case is till 7am hahah! Damn you body clock set for early starts. Having a leisurely morning with nice breakfast and coffee, I decided to leave slightly earlier as initial plan just to take my time and enjoy the view, as this was my last day of my holiday. There were few smaller climbs and drops along the way, but generally it was nice and relaxed walk - and I took my time to truly appreciate my last few weeks and four multi-day hikes I did. Out of Kepler, Humpridge and Milford Track - I must admit this one was my absolute favourite. Rugged and less travelled track with the similar scenery as all three combines, with an added side trip was all and more what I was expecting.

The hike itself to Makarora would take about 6-8 hours to complete however, I had organised a jet boat again to take me to my car. Last 4 hour walk would have been walking along the river bed, which I had done previously and therefore felt I would have not missed a thing.

I still arrived hour prior pick up time, so I use the spare time to kick my shoes off and just enjoy the warm sunshine by the river. Nice and relaxing.

My original plan was to continue my hike from this point to the Upper Wilkin pass and to see few hidden lakes there, which would have added two extra days however due my earlier injury, I decided to leave them for another time and make most of this circuit - and I have to admit, thank goodness I did. My energy leave were pretty low and I needed a fe days nice rest before returning back to the routines.

The thrilling jet boat ride through the Wilkin Valley was an experience I haven’t had experienced before. The speed, shallow waters and incredible views made me understand why this activity is such a popular amongst tourists.

After half hours of thrills and laughter I was back at Makarora, and ready to have a road trip back to the Wanaka - where my last days of the holiday were waiting with good food, and good, well earned rest.

Quick tips:

The track can be walked both clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. If starting from the Young/Makarora, I found out the track is slightly more pleasant with less steep ascent and better views!

Plan your trip well and make sure you tell someone of your plans.

You have basically two starting points to do the hike: Stratford Plateau entrance on Pembroke Road in Stratford, or North Egmont entrance.

Check the weather conditions - again and again, and always be prepared to turn back if it changes for the worse.

Know your limits, health and fitness levels - and if in doubt, don’t hesitate to turn back.

There is no water along the track, so bring everything you need with you. Also, remember to bring snacks and food to replenish your strength as you need it. Pack accordingly for all eventualities such as emergencies, or you may be stranded for one reason or another.

Consider every scenario - the weather, emergencies and other conditions.

Take gloves and hiking poles with you, as well as a personal locator beacon, and allow plenty of time.

Prepare to be amazed!