new zealand: hump ridge track

Southern Fiordland, Southland / 61kms / 3 days loop / Intermediate

The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track offers your a rugged south coast of New Zealand, as well as sub-alpine scenery of the Hump Ridge with a signs of a historic, and ambitious forestry industry once practised in the heart of lush forests. You can do the track as a freedom walk, or guided, or even more luxurious experience by getting your gear delivered to the lodges by a helicopter and stay in a private rooms. Or even take a flight yourself to avoid first day’s biggest climb and only enjoy ridge line.

Your are required to spend three days on track with a limited spots available, until this private track comes The Great Walk number 11 with DOC sites to stay over night.

Arrival: tuatapere

Tuatapere is a gate way to Hump Ridge - located 2.5 hours drive from Queenstown or 1.5 hours from Te Anau, in the Southland. This little town is most famous of the best New Zealand sausages as they claim. And based on awards received - I guess it must be true! I arrived day earlier, right after completing the Kepler Track, and was looking forward to have a great meal and sleep prior this less known circuit.

day 1: tuatapere to okaka lodge

As the hike was pre-booked, there were no options to push it further on without losing the money paid for accommodation. The morning was cloudy with a sense of rain coming in, but no turning back with a set plan as nothing indicated it was going to be dangerous. After a quick breakfast I took a drive to the start of the track, Rarakau Car Park. If you don’t have a car, you have an option to take shuttle, which will drop you off as well as pick you up once completed the track. Remember to take a bit of cash for a donations to use private car park.

The first 30mins you are making your way through the bush and cliff tops towards the coast. After steep descent and slippery steps, you will arrive to the Waikoau Rives swing bridge. Once you cross this, you have an option to take a 3 kilometre gravel road to walk along, or if the tide is low, beach walk. I had a low tide, and clouds hanging low indicating upcoming rain - yet it was such a nice feel the sea breeze. You will return after the main loop into this same section, so if you miss a low tide, you might have a chance for a beach walk again once you return.

From the coast you start entering into the forest, and as you arrive to the Flat Creek, this 10 kilometre mark is your point to turn into the loop track and towards to Okaka Lodge which is the first spot to stay over night. Next 10 kilometres are constant climb, up to the elevation of 800 meters. The track starts gently thorough the forest and bush, with well build boardwalk. You will cross few bridges (at the last one you can find a billy, little bucket in a string, you can fill you water bottle with fresh mountain water. This is your last chance for water, as you start the 4-5 hours climb to the ridge line.

The track is pretty rugged, which is a nice change for man built boardwalks, yet it requires good fitness. As I was climbing it started to rain, which brought the whole forest alive. I am not sure what was happening, but everything came foggy, or mist seemed to rise from the ground and the whole scenery got this blue, greenish hue which slowly surrounded me. It was such an unusual sight and experience, which I never had experience before. Magical.

Once you reach the Stag Point, you are only 2 kilometres away from the Lodge. If the weather is clear, you are treated with a view all the way to the Stuart Island, however I didn’t have such a luck. There were no clear sky on sight, so I decided to continue the climb and after 2 hours I arrived to the Lodge, where I was treated with a coffee / tea and well earned late lunch.

I was soaked from rain and it was such a nice feeling to feel the warmth of the fireplace, as wind was picking up outside. The views are incredible, as you see the car park you started from far away at the distance, as well as the beach you walk at the start. It makes you appreciate the effort you put in, which often goes fully unnoticed as you don’t get a chance to see your achievement.

As the evening started to settle in and the sky became clearer, I decided to take a walk around the scenic loop track overviewing the southern coast line as the sun set coloured the skyline with all kind of different hues. This 45 minute track is well worth doing - either at the sunset or early morning as you start your second day hike.

day 2: okaka lodge to port craig lodge

A crisp morning greeted me with a clear blue skies as I was enjoying my morning coffee and porridge provided by the lodge. Such a mood booster after last day’s clouds and rain. This section is all about the views from the highest point from the track (the first photo) before descent towards the coast line and Port Craig.

First clear section is a hour long hike along the ridge line - both deep in a forest and bush as well fully exposed mountain top - to the Luncheon Rock. Make sure you have a sunscreen on and proper clothing as the sun and wind can truly make your start of the day much harsh than needed.

Luncheon Rock is a solid piece of rock, awarding you with the views of the other side of the coast line. This spot also has toilets, small shelter and water tap for your use. Perfect spot to take a moment to appreciate the stunning Southland, before start rest of the day long descent towards the Port Craig.

The descent is long and extremely muddy at times thank to a wild pigs digging the grounds, and you should take your time and care to avoid any injuries - but this is a best time to discover flora and fauna, as well as the sounds of the true New Zealand nature.

After 2-3 hours from the Rock you will reach the Edwin Burns Viaduct, and you start the walk via old tram line - which once served a route to the Port Craig sawmill. This section you will across several viaducts - including the Percy Burn Viaduct which is the largest wooden viaduct in the southern hemisphere. This is a truly wild feeling to cross. In case the bridge is closed, you will descent down to the valley, before ascending up to the other side, which will add on few hours to your hike.

2 hours on and I arrived to the Port Craig. As i left early, and fairly steady fast pace, I had a chance to settle down, enjoy my lunch and explore the short heritage track near by. The history of the old sawmill is truly fascinating, with some ambitious plans they once had for this area - which unfortunately didn’t carry on.

The heritage track also descent to Mussel Beach where you can spot seals, penguins, as well as Hector Dolphins which are only found from this area. I was in luck and spend hours of sun bathing while looking dolphins to play around near the shore.

If you are coming to this area from the opposite direction, you have an option to stay slightly cheaper, first come first serve basis, DOC hut, or you have a possibility to camp near by.

day 3: port craig lodge to rarakau car park

As usual, early start. Am I completing with the sun?? Anyway, breakfast and off I went for next three hours of forest walk. Crossing the rivers, hearing nature waking up slowly, sun slowly climbing higher, and reaching the coast again… Breakneck Creek. From this point you walk along the beach, do a few climbs over the headlands to the Blowhole Beach, another climb over the headland and one more beach.

The track is pretty straight forward - leisurely beaches, sections of forests and tramline. As you reach the Flat Creek, you continue the track back you came on a day 1. Nothing too complicated, and hopefully you get a chance to do beach walk if you missed it on your first day.

Biggest highlight however taking your time before the swing bridge leading up the the car park is… look behind and witness the whole track you have done. You are able to see the Okaka Lodge flats and circuit track, the Ridgeline to Port Craig and even the beach. This moment is a worth memorising and purely appreciate what you do and what hiking is all about. Going extra mile and beyond while exploring incredible and beautiful nature. It’s humbling yet powerful, and sure made me a bit emotional to realise how much we can achieve.

From here it was last climb up to the car park, and to the next adventure.

Quick tips:

Plan your trip well and make sure you tell someone of your plans.

Make sure you have booked your trip and accommodation well advanced. Also take some cash to donate for a parking if you arrive with your own vehicle.

Option is to get your gear helicoptered to the first lodge.

Check the weather conditions - and be prepared to turn back if it changes for the worse.

Know your limits, health and fitness levels - and if in doubt, don’t hesitate to turn back.

You can bring everything you need with you, however the lodges have an opportunity to purchase food and refreshments. They even have Eftpost machine. Make sure you have snacks and food to replenish your strength as you need it.

Pack accordingly for all eventualities such as emergencies, or you may be stranded for one reason or another.

Consider every scenario - the weather, emergencies and other conditions.

Consider taking hiking poles with you, as well as a personal locator beacon, and allow plenty of time.

Enjoy the scenery incredible Southland has to offer!