new zealand: Milford track

Fiordland National Park, Southland / 53.5kms / 2-4 days one way / Intermediate

On of the most famous - or maybe the most famous walk in the New Zealand, or even the world, is MIlfrod Track. This tracks takes you through glaziers, over the mountains and under the lust, ancient trees of a rain forests, as well as past ever forming waterfalls if you are lucky enough to explore this during the rain.

The track is best explore during the summer months if you are after more serviced huts and long hours of sunshine, however it can be fairly crowded. Outside the Great Walks season the services such as hut and transportation can be reduced, however you have a freedom the explore the track a bit more freely without forced to stop all three huts along the way.

The track can be only reached by boat, and walked one way from Glade Wharf to Sandfly Point located at the Mildford Sounds. Also, during the Great Walking season you have to book all three huts well advance, as usually they book out within 1 hour as the booking for the season opens. After this, you can try to find random opening for the huts as people might cancel their plans.

Arrival and Day 1: te anau to clinton hut

I took a roadtrip to Te Anau Downs, where my 2pm boat was ready to take me to the Glade Wharf, which is the starting point of the track. You have few options to choose from for the boat, however make sure you have booked these well advanced. You also need to get the transportation out of the track, and Milford Sounds. Options are to stay in Milford Sounds to explore more, which is a great way to visit famous fiordland. If you wish to leave straight after the walk, you can opt out to take a bus, or relocate your car which is a great option to explore more smaller hikes as you make your way out of the park.

Approximately hour long boat cruise gave me a chance to relax, and just to enjoy the views as I entered deeper to the fiorland. Once reaching the wharf, the first 5 kilometre walk to Clinton Hut is easy, with an option to do see wetlands. Nothing major or challenging, just straight forward walk in well formed track along the beautiful Clinton River.

This section for a bit too short for my liking, however there was no option to skip the hut, or start the hike earlier and therefore I took my time to explore the Clinton River further, as well as check out the glow worm grotto at the night time as the rain was coming in.

day 2: clinton hut to mintaro hut

Second day started with a pouring rain and thunder - throughout the whole 16.5 kilometres distance. I must admit at times I felt like this wasn’t going to be best time of my life, no matter how exited I was - however as I stepped into the Mackinnon Pass my mood was instantly shifted. Seeing thousands of waterfalls forming all around, while sky gets filled with purple flashes and thunderous sounds and echoes… the Fiorland truly comes alive! Exploring a small Dead Lake, wide open fields and admiring the views is just a start of the bigger adventure. As I walked pass the mountains, crossing overflowing rivers, and seeing incredible Pompolona ice field in a distance, I couldn’t help but thank the nature for giving me such an incredible welcome to the whole another world.

This is the double edge sword… If you want blue skies and views as far as you can see, you will be missing this whole another world of one of the most wettest places in the world - and vice versa. I sure appreciated every drop of rain as I discovered hidden lakes, rivers and alternative routes when the water levels are high.

And not to mention how small you feel as the mountains are towering around you up to the sky as you walk up the Clinton Valley, and steady slow climb to the Mintaro Hut. The climb is only 250 meter elevation and not a challenge at all as you are busy taking in this incredible place.

It takes about 6 hours for this section so there is no need to rush anywhere.

day 3: mintaro hut to dumpling hut

Day three is all about climbing up to the Mackinnon Pass. The highest point reaches 1000 meter mark, which isn’t big of a challenge if you have fairly good fitness level - however even if you aren’t the fittest, you have plenty of time for this 14 kilometre section, which roughly takes 6-7 hours to complete.

The good new is you start the two hour climb straight from the start, well rested, and you have already climbed part of it on a previous day. As you are zig zagging higher of the Mackinnon, the views slowly reveal the valley you just came from, as well as Lake Mintaro and Clinton Canyon, and it is a truly rewarding moment to see how far you have come.

As you are reaching the highest point of the track, you are highly exposed and as in my case, strong winds, fog and rain kept the valley mostly hidden - and I can only imagine the scenery on a bright day with blue skies, however this doesn’t bother me… nature and weather is what it is, you can’t control it and therefore it doesn’t spoil my experience. Quite the opposite actually, as I got a chance to see whole another side of the Fiordland.

After passing the highest point, Mackinnon memorial and Mackinnon Pass shelter, surrounded by few tarns, the steady drop to the other side of the pass starts. Due the flooding earlier the year, the track was closed and instead I was required to follow more rugged emergency path, where I was required to pay more attention to the footing. I made several stops to appreciate the views, which were appearing and closing as the low clouds were drifting on a valley, and rain slowly easing up. Moments like these are my whole driving force to explore new places, no matter what the weather or season is on.

As I reached the valley floor, passing roaming rivers and waterfalls, I could hear this sound of machinery from the distance. This deep, constant sounds which was echoing all around - as the thunder was creeping in just to compete with this new sound. I couldn’t figure out the source of this sounds, until I took the 2 hour return side track to go and see Sutherland Falls up close.

I strongly suggest you take this trip to go and witness the power, what 500 meter drop of water can create. The sound, mist of water, and wind it creates as the water drops to the base is a true show of power. Until this point I managed to keep myself dry pretty much from the rain, however I walked out from the waterfall absolutely soaked, yet not regretting a single bit.

Once back on a main track, it was only 1 hour, wet walk to the Dumplin Hut, which was my last overnight stop before the fourth, and last day, of the Great Walk.

Day 4: Dumpling hut to sandfly point, milford sounds and and te anau

Last day was pretty leisurely walk of 18 kilometres, taking roughly 5-6 hours to the Sandfly Point Shelter, where the boat was scheduled to pick me up 2pm and take me to the Milford Sound landing - where a transportation was about to take me back to the Te Anau Downs where I did start the walk.

The morning was calm and sunny, and once again I decided to start fairly early and make most of the last day in this incredible scenery I had been enjoying last three days. The track follows the Arthur River without much of an effort - but you can enjoy the last day and reflect you past few days.

On the way you come across a beautiful MacKay Falls, as well as a quirky Bell Rock - massive cup shaped rock which has flipped over and you are able to crawl inside to see what nature can do.

As you continue your walk, you get a close view of the Arthur River and lake Ada, as you walk along a man made rock cutting to open the track years and years ago. During a heavy rain this section of the track can flood, which can cause major delays. Latest floods 2019 caused major damage in this part of the track, washing away bridges - which you can witness as you arrive to the Giant Gate Falls (seen above). You also come across massive landslides - which have moved the whole sections of forests and you can't help but admire the power of nature it has.

Form the Giant Gate you only have roughly 1.5 hours to go to the Sandfly Point which is end of the track. You know you are close as you arrive to the wide, and smooth section of the path, which was built in the late of 19th century by using prisoners - aimed to have a carriage track all the way to the Sutherland Falls. however after two years fo building it was decided to stop due the slow progress of the road.

Just before arriving to the end you have a majestic views of the Milford Sound framed by trees, and you can’t help but smile for the adventure you just had. As your boat takes you to the Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, you can have a lot view of the scenery unless you decided to continue by taking a cruise to see Milford Sound up close, or even stay further on overnight. Otherwise hop into your car, or pre organised bus, and enjoy the hour plus ride out of the Fiordland National Park to your chosen return point to have a well earned dinner, or trip to home.

Personally, I loved the track however would consider to do it out of the Great Walking Season to have more options to decide my own pace, as well as avoid possible big crowds.

But no matter what you decide to do, I won’t be disappointed!

Just a note… 2021 there is an option to do a return day hike starting from the Milford Sound via Sandfly point to see Giant Gate Falls. What a great options if you are staying at the Milford Sound or you don’ have time to complete the whole track!

quick tips:

Plan your trip well and make sure you tell someone of your plans.

Book early, as this track is limited with a number of people per day, and often sells out within hour if going to go during the Great Walk season. Services are partially open end of October till end of November and fully from December to the end of April.

During the Great Walk Season you are forced to spend four days on a track with three night, outside the season you have more freedom, however with less transport options and reduced hut facilities. Camping is not allowed in this track.

Make sure you have organised all the transportation - boat in and out of the track, and Milford Sounds.

Remember to bring snacks and food to replenish your strength as you need it. Pack accordingly for all eventualities such as emergencies, or you may be stranded for one reason or another.

Consider every scenario - the weather, emergencies and other conditions.

Consider taking hiking poles with you, as well as a personal locator beacon, and allow plenty of time.

When it is raining, EVERY surface becomes highly slippery, especially newly formed rivers and streams hiding moss covered rocks. No jumping, just push thought with your shoes on to get a safer grip.

Keep an eye of the wildlife, and you might be lucky to spot endangered blue duck/whio amongst many others.

Prepare to be amazed in the most famous walk of New Zealand!